From time to time, someone comes into the nursery frustrated: "I planted it exactly like the tag said and it died." More often than not, it's not the plant—it's how it went into our soil.
Pacific Northwest clay doesn't drain like the soil in gardening books. It holds water in winter (drowning roots) and bakes hard in summer (starving them). The techniques that work in sandy soil or loam will fail here. Here's what actually works.
Step 1: Dig the Right Hole (Wider, Not Deeper)
The Rule:
Dig a hole two to three times the width of the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball itself.
Why width matters more than depth: Roots grow outward, not down. A wide hole gives them loose soil to spread into. A deep hole causes the plant to settle, putting the root flare below grade—which leads to rot and a slow death.
Proper Hole Dimensions
Wide hole allows roots to spread • Same depth prevents settling
Common Mistake
Digging a deep, narrow hole like you're planting a fence post. This creates a "bathtub" that fills with water and drowns roots in our wet winters.
Step 2: Amend the Soil (But Not Too Much)
Mix your soil using 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost. Add an all-purpose fertilizer according to package directions.
Why not 100% compost? If you backfill with pure compost, roots stay in that "good" soil and never venture into the native clay. The plant becomes root-bound in its own planting hole and struggles long-term. You want roots to transition gradually into the surrounding soil.
Step 3: Handle Burlapped Root Balls Correctly
If your tree or shrub came with a burlap sack around the roots (common for larger stock), here's the right approach:
- 1Set the root ball in the hole at the right depth first
- 2Cut any strings or twine at the top of the burlap
- 3Fold the burlap away from the trunk so the top third of the root ball is visible
- 4Do not remove the burlap entirely—it keeps the feeder roots intact
The burlap will decompose naturally over time. Removing it completely often damages the fine feeder roots that the plant needs to establish.
Step 4: Get the Depth Right
The Rule:
Plant with one quarter of the root ball above ground level and three quarters below.
This sounds wrong to people—won't the roots be exposed? No. You'll mound soil and mulch over that exposed portion. But starting high prevents the settling that buries the root flare over time.
The root flare (where trunk meets roots) should always be visible at or just above soil level. Buried flares lead to rot, disease, and dead plants.
Correct Planting Depth
Root flare should always be visible at or above soil level
Step 5: Build a Water Well
After backfilling, create a raised ring of soil around the plant, about 3-4 inches high, at the outer edge of the root ball. This forms a basin that holds water and directs it down to the roots instead of running off.
Fill this well slowly and let it soak in. This ensures deep watering rather than surface moisture that evaporates.
Building a Water Well
Raised soil ring directs water down to the roots
Step 6: Water Correctly for Two Years
The Two-Year Rule
Water deeply and consistently for the first two years. Don't rely on sprinklers or rain until the plant is fully established—approximately 2 years in our climate.
"But it rains all the time here!" True, but rain often doesn't penetrate our clay soil deeply enough to reach new roots. And summer dry spells—even short ones—can kill plants that aren't established yet.
Watering Guidelines
- Spring/Fall: Deep water once a week if no significant rain
- Summer: Deep water 2-3 times per week during dry spells
- Winter: Usually okay with natural rainfall, but check during dry weeks
- "Deep water" means filling that water well 2-3 times, letting it soak in between
Quick Reference: The 6 Steps
- 1.Dig hole 2-3x wider than root ball, same depth
- 2.Mix soil: 2/3 topsoil, 1/3 compost, add fertilizer
- 3.Cut burlap strings, fold back top third—don't remove
- 4.Plant with 1/4 root ball above grade
- 5.Build a water well around the plant
- 6.Deep water for 2 years—don't rely on rain or sprinklers
"Bring photos of your yard—we'll help you pick plants that thrive in your specific conditions and walk you through planting them right."
— Todd's Nursery staff
Stop by the nursery with questions anytime—no appointment needed. Our staff has helped thousands of Puyallup Valley gardeners get plants established in our tricky soil. For more research-backed guidance, the WSU Extension Gardening Resources are an excellent local reference.